We all have those cherished pieces, heirlooms passed down through generations, imbued with history and whispered stories. But sometimes, these treasures don't quite fit our modern lives. Perhaps the setting is worn, the size impractical, or the style simply does not feel like you.
This was the predicament that faced Sam. She'd inherited an emerald ring from her godmother, who had previously inherited if from her godmother. The ring imbued so much meaning but remained unworn as the stones had become loose, the ring was too big and the style not to her taste. Sam wanted to wear the stones her godmother had worn in way which felt modern, wearable with a touch of Art Deco flair.
As a designer I understand the emotional connection of these heirlooms. My approach is a respectful dance between preserving the past and breathing new life for the future. Here's a glimpse into Sam's design journey:
AFTER
READY TO BE WORN DAY IN, DAY OUT
BEFORE
NEVER WORN
STONES LOOSE, WRONG SIZE & STYLE NOT RIGHT
A summary of the process
STEP 1
HEIRLOOM IS EXAMINED BY EXPERT EYES
EXAMINED
UNDER MICROSCOPE
STEP 2
THE STONES ARE TAKEN FROM THEIR EXISTING SETTING
STEP 3
A SERIES OF DESIGNS ARE DISCUSSED AND A CHOICE IS MADE
STEP 4
THE DESIGN IS RENDERED IN CAD
STEP 5
A WAX IS MADE AND CAST IN METAL, CLEANED UP AND FINALISED.
STEP 6
EACH STONE IS INDIVIDUALLY SET BY HAND
STEP 7
POLISHED & READY TO GO
STEP 1: Authentification & THE DETECTIVE WORK
First, we authenticated the diamonds – to make sure they were real and had the strength to withstand the work needed.
A skilled setter meticulously examined the stones under a microscope, searching for any hidden flaws which could mean that the stone could break once it was taken out of its original setting. Thankfully, the emerald and diamonds were safe.
STEP 2: DESIGN TO HIGHLIGHT THE QUALITY OF THE STONES
Sam envisioned a piece that was classic with a modern twist. While initial design sketches offered a starting point, the true inspiration came from the stones themselves. Their history and irregular cut demanded a design that complemented their unique character.
We showcased the antique diamonds in all their irregular glory, highlighting their unique characteristics, which contrasted the more modern and angular shape of the setting.
STEP 3: THE MAGIC OF CAD
Computer-aided design (CAD) allowed us to visualize the transformation, meticulously crafting a setting that cradled the stones with both security and style.
STEP 4: MOLTEN DREAMS
Metal is melted and poured into a cast. On cooling it is released and it becomes the form of the jewel. The metal is then filed by hand to finalise the shape and then polished.
STEP 5: SETTING THE STAGE
Each stone is set individually by a master stonesetter to ensure the stones are evenly spaced and that the emerald is sufficiently protected in the mount.
Once all the stones have been set the ring is given a final polish. It is then sent to the Assay Office where the materials are authenticated and stamped to show that the Karat of metal has been approved.
"HEIRLOOMS HAVE THE POWER TO CONNECT GENERATIONS"
AISHLEEN LESTER, FOUNDER AND DESIGNER
Heirlooms have the power to connect gererations. Or as Sam more eloquently said; “I love it but I also love knowing that my Goddaughter will wear it once I pass. The tradition of Goddaughter to Goddaughter will continue.”
Interested in redesigning your heirloom jewellery?
